How to cover beard shadow

Why you still see it

Shaving removes the hair above your skin, but the dark hair under it stays. Through your skin it looks blue, grey or purple, even if your hair is brown or black. More foundation alone does not help much: the cool colour shows through. So first you correct the colour, then you cover it.

1. Shave

Make your skin and hair wet first, use shaving gel or foam, and shave in the direction the hair grows. Rinse the blade between strokes. Then use a moisturiser and give your skin a moment to calm down before you start.

2. Primer

A primer after your moisturiser makes your skin smoother and helps make-up last longer. A little is enough: too much primer can make your foundation slide.

3. Correct the colour

Orange and peach cancel out blue. Which shade you need depends on your skin and on how dark the shadow is.

Light skin: peach or light salmon, and a bit more orange if the shadow is strong. Medium skin: deeper peach or orange. Deep skin: strong orange, red-orange or brick. A corrector that is too light makes deep skin look grey. Check it in daylight.

4. Pat on a little, only where needed

Pat a small amount of corrector with a flat brush, a sponge or your fingertip, only where you see the shadow. Still see blue? Build it up layer by layer. Don’t rub: that wipes the correction away.

5. Cover

Cover it with a foundation or concealer in your own skin colour that covers well. A cream or stick works well for a strong shadow, but a full-coverage liquid foundation also works. Pat it over the corrector. Test the colour on your jawline, so your face and neck match.

6. Set with powder

Set everything with a thin layer of powder. Then the layers stay in place and don’t mix.

Touching up

Is your skin shiny later? Pat on a little powder. Check above your upper lip after eating and drinking: make-up wears off there first. Adding new layers of corrector and foundation on top quickly looks thick and patchy. How long it lasts depends on your skin and the products.

What often goes wrong

More and more foundation while the blue stays. Too much corrector, or too strong, so orange shows through. A light corrector on deep skin, which looks grey. Rubbing instead of patting. Red lipstick as a corrector: it is oily and does not set well.

Want it gone for good?

Laser uses light, and electrolysis uses electric current: both treat the hair roots themselves. That is a treatment, not make-up. A doctor or a qualified specialist can tell you what suits you.

Want someone to show you?

In a makeover, Patty does this for you and explains what she does. Do you want more, at your own speed? There is personal coaching.

This guide is based on what make-up artists and dermatologists publish. The sources are below.

• Corrie Dubay, make-up artist: covering beard shadow
• Kryolan: colour correction
• Jecca Blac: trans makeup for beginners
• Jecca Blac with Plume: make-up tips at the start of transition
• Siân Richards London: colour correction for deep skin
• American Academy of Dermatology: how to shave
• British Association of Dermatologists: hair removal

• Make-up for beginners The basics of a feminine look, in nine steps.
• Personal coaching One to one, all about your questions.

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